What’s a Slinger and how does it relate to FTA?

June 28th, 2009

Another option for those who have lost their FTA TV reception due to the Nagra 3 (N3) switchover is to get a new ethernet-based Slinger mated to a modified Production Receiver.

This means that viewing will be based on existing production firmware, guide, and remote control. The Slinger will be connected to a Key server for synchronization of the Code Words used for each channel.Slinger for Production Card Slot Receivers - Click To Order  I will cost approximately $510 if a Slinger and production hardware with a card slot is used for TV viewing.

Contact us for other posible solutions for this type of application. If you already own a production receiver, call us to determine if it can be modified for use with the Slinger option. Production 625 DVR Dual Tuner Receiver - Click To Order It will require your shipping the unit to our partner location for modification. They will modify the unit and return it with a Slinger unit allowing for its immediate use. If you already have a K-box, Nfusion, Sonicview 360 elite or premier receiver, then you only have the cost of the dongle (iHub), configuration, and Internet-based access to the key server. At this point the Sonicview and K-Box receivers are confirmed opperational with use of their respective iHub dongles.

For more information visit our web site at http://MeridianSatelliteTV.com

What is IKS and how does it relate to FTA

June 21st, 2009

So what is IKS?
IKS (Internet Key Sharing) is the latest method in the FTA (Free-To-Air) satellite community that tackles the problem of the new Nagravision 3 encryption technology by supplying decryption keys to a FTA Satelite receiver over the Internet. While some are reasonably wary of IKS technology, most use some sort of proxy server to act as a protection of a users real ip address, just in case authorities or satellite providers may be monitoring the connections to a central server or array of IKS servers. There are several brands now supporting a present or future IKS solution. Some require the purchase of a special device (known as n iHub, or Dongle) specifically designed to expand a boxes capabilities to use the new IKS FTA method. Currently IKS has been limited to non-pay-per-view subscription only programming. Other boxes (known as Slinger boxes) have built in support for the technogy.

How does IKS work with FTA?
Well to make it easy to understand, a receiver is configured with the IP address of a remote server on the internet where a system is setup to capture the decryption keys being received by another receiver who is receiving subscribed channels. The keys are sent by a card sharing server back over the internet to receivers connected to the server. A receiver that is connected via an ip proxy to the server is then able to open or unlock the channel for viewing locally, through use of IKS.

For further information on IKS for your home FTA solution visit us at: http://MeridianSatelliteTV.com

So what is Free-to-Air(FTA)?

June 21st, 2009

Asia and the Pacific Rim were the first places in which Free-To-Air satellite reception was first used on a large scale. The difference between those markets and North America was that prior to the mid 90s, it took a very large antenna (greater than 6 ft wide) installed at a home backyard to get even a few dozen channels (installing at an RV was improbable if not impossible, if not impossible)…making TV reception of many channels an impossible dream. The MPEG-2 technology was a breakthrough that allowed great reductions in per-channel transmission costs and allowed for reception at home or RV due to the small diameter dish or oval antenna requirements.

Click at our partner site for FREE-TO-AIR pricing! The Asia-Pacific market was a test bed on how to get digital satellite transmission and reception right, with costs coming down due to companies from the Far East trying to compete for the huge mainland Chinese market. The markets later florished in Europe, and now in North America. Dish Network and DirecTV currently dominate the Satellite TV subscription market, using a slightly different transmission and reception technology.

Hyundai was the first receiver brought into the U.S., with its early versions of the HSS-100 series of receivers. Wholesale cost was around $700, it had a limited memory, which translated to no more than 99 groups of channels, and the graphics only worked in the PAL video format. Viewing on our NTSC format required a direct connection to a VCR or monitor and some programming tricks to “make” an NTSC picture. We have come a long ways in the last few years, with many significant improvements in design of receivers, and great increases in memory capacity and speed.

MPEG-2 is a worldwide satellite transmission standard for digital broadcasting. It is the wave of the future, because of the simple economics that can allow 8 or even 10 video signals to occupy the same space as one channel of analog transmission. Just as some analog signals can be scrambled for subscription use, digital channels can be transmitted either scrambled or in-the-clear. In-The-Clear is known in the digital TV world as FTA or Free-To-Air. Since it is a worldwide standard, there are more MPEG-2/DVB (digital video broadcasting) channels available in places such as Europe, the Middle East, and Asia, than presently found in the American market. National public broadcasters in other parts of the world have adopted MPEG-2 as a cost-effective way to distribute their signals on limited budgets.

The spread of free MPEG-2 signals into North America had been hampered by the dominance of the Digicipher 2 video standard made by the former General Instruments (now Motorola Broadband) group. Receivers such as 4DTV and other versions of the Digicipher 2 actually have the letters MPEG-2 stamped on them, but these receivers are not compatible with the rest of the world. The difference comes in the way that signals are layered together, especially in the encryption process.

A great number of the channels available in Free-To-Air in MPEG-2 are mostly available from other countries. Such availability is contingent upon somebody paying the bill for satellite transmission across the ocean, and then re-transmitting to the North American market. In some cases, the North American signal is made available on one of the small-dish systems such as DirecTV or DISH Network for a monthly fee, but the incoming feed from overseas is left in the clear. The reason is primarily economic, with the logic that very few people will go to the trouble of installing a large C-band antenna in this day and age to view one free channel, when they can have it delivered by alternative methods for what some might consider to be a reasonable fee. Problem is that this “free” reception sometimes gets too popular, and the bean counters at DISH Network decide to encode the incoming international feeds, thus forcing all to subscribe. This happened recently with Polish services, then Russian, and who knows what next.

Fort further information on FTA choices, especially given the latest Nagra 3 (N3) encryption and its effects on the FTA marketspace visit our web site at http://MeridianSatelliteTV.com

Latest N3 Encryption for FTA Receivers

June 21st, 2009

For those of you who have lost FTA TV viewing due to the recent Nagra3 (N3) encryption switchover, an option is to get a new ethernet-based IKS-type hub using a Codeworks or Sonicview receiver (soon to be available for other receivers). A Slinger modified receiver (ie. no dongle required) is also available for a higher equipment cost. We can assist with this type of setup (equipment, installation, configration, and Key Server access is required), with fast access to a secure IP-based local proxy for transparent Key updates.

Our recommendation is a subscription to Dish Network and avoid the regular key updates or Ethernet Dongle (such as the Viewsonic iHub) required now for FTA TV viewing. If your choice is to continue with FTA TV viewing however, it will cost approximately $260.00 (incl. Sonicview 360 Elite receiver, plus iHub dongle). We are working with obtaining a lower cost solution for this type of application. If you already have a Sonicview receiver, then you only have the cost of the dongle (iHub), configuration, and access to the key server.

For further assistance visit our web site  at http://MeridianSatelliteTV.com

What FTA satellite system I should buy?

December 11th, 2008

It is important to remember and consider that since FTA channels are available free of charge, there are no guarantees from the channel provider that these channels will be available for any period of time. Thus, you may enjoy the channels as long as it is available. If a subscription to direcTV or Dish Network is not what you want to do, then another subscription option is Meridian Satellite’s own C-Dish service based on the C-Band technology. (Details coming soon!)

In order for us to help you choose the best FTA solution for you, you will need to decide which channels are of interest and most important to you. Since FTA channels are available worldwide, we will limit our discussion here to channels that you can receive in North America.

For most of our customers, there are two FTA systems you can buy. A “Stationary System” or a “Motorized System”:

Stationary System:
A Stationary System consists of a satellite receiver, a dish and an LNBF. With this system you will aim the stationary dish at one of the satellites in the sky. Since the dish is only aimed at one satellite, you will only be able to receive the FTA channels, or transponder signals, being transmitted on that one satellite. Most of the time, that should be sufficient for you. For example, most of the Persian or Arabic FTA channels are available on IA5 (aka Galaxy 25) at 97W. So for these ethnic customers for instance, those channels might be the only channels of interest to them and in this case a stationary system should be more than enough.

Even if you buy a stationary system and you decide in the future to motorize the dish, you can simply add an HH (Horizon to Horizon) motor and install it on your system.

Motorized System:
A Motorized System will consist of a satellite receiver, HH Motor, dish and an LNBF. Having a motor will allow you to rotate the dish about the horizontal (Azimuth) to several satellites allowing you to receive channels from more than one source. This of course will give you a greater variety of channels to access and view.

With this system you will not be restricted to a limited number of channels from one satellite. This is definitely the recommended system for the true FTA enthuthiast. You will find American FTA channels spread over several satellites and a motorized system is a must in this case.

Dish Size:
The minimum size dish for either of the above systems should be 80cm (31″) along the width of the dish. Of course, the bigger the dish the better the signal strength and quality (produced by the focal length). You should be able to install a dish of up to 100cm (39.3″) without any problems with your homeowners association in most areas in the USA. Make sure that you upgrade the motor as well if you decide to upgrade your dish.

What is the Ku band?

December 6th, 2008

The Ku band (Kurtz-under band) is primarily used for satellite editing and broadcasting satellite television. It is also used by Satellite TV services providers such as DirecTV and Dish Network for their subscriber base. This band is split into multiple segments broken down into geographical regions, as determined by the ITU (International Telecommunication Union).

The Ku band is a portion of the electromagnetic spectrum in the microwave range of frequencies ranging from 11.7 to 12.7GHz. (downlink frequencies) and 14 to 14.5GHz (uplink frequencies).

The most common Ku band digital reception format is DVB (Digital Video Broadcast – the main profile video format). There are other studio profile digital video formats such as the full-blown Digicipher II 4DTV format now extensively used in C-Band communictions.

The ITU Region 2 segments covering the majority of the Americas are between 11.7 and 12.2 GHz, with over 21 FSS North American Ku-band satellites currently orbiting. Each requires a 0.8-m to 1.5-m antenna and carries twelve to twenty four transponders, of which consume 20 to 120 watts (per transponder), for clear reception.

The 12.2 to 12.7 GHz segment of the Ku Band spectrum is allocated to the broadcasting satellite service (BSS). These direct broadcast satellites typically carry 16 to 32 transponders.
Each provides 27 MHz in bandwidth, and consumes 100 to 240 watts each, accommodating downlink receiver antennas as wide as 450 mm (18 inches ).

Ku Band Difficulties:
Unlike C-Band, with the Ku Ban frequencies higher than 10 GHz are transmitted and received used in a heavy rain fall area, a noticeable degradation occurs, due to the problems caused by and proportional to the amount of rain fall (commonly known as known as “rain fade”, a portion of the low power signal is reflected from the rain drops/orbs).

This problem is combatted, however, by deploying an appropriate link budget strategy when designing the satellite network, and allocating a higher power consumption to overcome rain fade loss. In terms of end-viewer TV reception it takes heavy rainfalls in excess of 100 mm per hour to have a noticeable effect.

A similar phenomena, called “snow fade” (when snow accumulation significantly alters the focal point of your dish) can also occur during Winter Season. Also, the Ku band satellites typically require considerably more power to transmit than the C band satellites. However, both Ku and Ka band satellite dishes are smaller (varying in size from 2′ to 5′ in diameter) than C-Band dishes.

Ku Band Satellite Service Downlink Usage Frequency Range
The Ku band downlink uses frequencies between 11.7 and 12.7GHz, which are further subdivided according to their assigned use:

Ku Band Usage Downlink:
- Fixed Satellite Service 11.7 – 12.2GHz
- Broadcast Satellite Service 12.2 – 12.7GHz

Services that can be found on the Ku-band include educational networks, business networks, sports backhauls, private tele-conferences, mobile news truck feeds, international programming, and various SCPC (Single Channel Per Carrier) transmissions of analog audio, as well as FM audio services.

If you already have a operational C-band system in place, you can retrofit it to accept Ku band frequencies. In order to do so, you will need to obtain a Ku-band LNB as well as a C/Ku band feed-horn, plus some coax cable for your Ku-band LNB. As for the coax cable recommended- RG-6 is optimal for low loss in the 950-1450 frequency range- what Ku-band LNB processes.

Ku Band Dish Antenna Compatibility:
If you have a solid dish, you should have no problem converting from C band, to Ku band. However, with a mesh dish, if the “holes” in the mesh are greater than a quarter inch, the chances of computability are not good due to the fact that this type of dish does not reflect Ku-band signals properly. Therefore, we strongly suggestr upgrading to either a solid dish, or a mesh dish in which the hole size under 1/4″, and ideally you’ll want a dish that is 1 piece (or at least very few pieces); as 4 section dish is more optimal than an 8 section dish. The fewer the sections, the more accurate your parabola shape is and thereby the more difficult it is for your dish to become warped (the smaller the number of seams- the better). And insofar as dish mounts go, the H2H (Horizon-to-Horizon) dish mount is more desirable than a polar mount.

This is due to the fact that the Ku-band demands that the dish antenna system is well-targeted and able to closely follow the orbital arc, of which the H2H mount does quite admirably, as compared to a polar mount. Also, bear in mind that you will be adjusting both the azimuth and elevation, which can be a bit tricky occasionally.

Importance of Satellite Antenna Dish Parabola:
The parabolic shape of your dish is of critical importance, as warpage causes signal degradation via mis-reflection, seriously down-grading your overall system performance. Some tape and string is all that is required to do a quick warpage check and some tape.

Anchor a piece of string, stretched as tight as possible, “north” to “south” across your dish face, edge to edge. You’ll want to do the same thing again, with another piece of string, only “east” to “west” across the dish face- at 90 degree angles. Be sure that both strings are tight. If the strings come together anywhere but the direct center, then your dish has sustained warp damage and needs to be bent back into proper parabola shape, for optimal performance. If they connect in the center of your dish, likely that your dish is not warped.
So therefore, you’ll want to use either the tri-supports or quad supports , as they will greatly assist in keeping your C/Ku-band feed-horn highly stable, even in high winds.

C-Band Technology FAQ

December 3rd, 2008

What is the difference between KU Band and C Band?

C-band transmits at a lower frequency (4 MHz), while Ku band transmits at a higher frequency (11 to 12 GHz). C band is more commonly used in the United States and for international transmission, whereas Ku-band is the standard in Europe.  Ku-Band is gaining a foothold in the US however with the adoption of the DVB video format.

Ku-band permits the use of smaller antennas that are aesthetically better and much cheaper than a C-band antenna. A typical Ku-band antenna is 1.2/1.8m  (~3 ft wide) and a typical C-band antenna ranges from 1.8m, 2.4m, 3.8m (4.5ft-8 ft) etc. Ku-band requires less radio power than C-band to provide the same signal stength thus allowing a smaller antenna. The cost of C-band equipment and installation is normally higher that of Ku-band. C-band equipment and installations must be purchased by the user, while it can be obtained for free with the leading Ku Band subscription services providers.  A two year commitment is required however, but you can’t beat free!.

The receiver I bought says “C band/Ku band compatible” – can I get C band with it?

Yes, the receiver is C band/Ku band compatible, but if it has a 3 foot dish attached it may be too small for C band, mainly because C band has a longer wavelength and requires a minimum 4 1/2 foot dish. But with a 3 foot dish, you might be able to install a C band LNBF and receive C band radio signals.  There is currently an Astronomy professor in California 3 foot (90cm) prime focus dish outfitted with a primefocus feed and signal meter to collect signal at GHz range. .
With C Band,  the uplink frequencies range from 5925 to 6425 MHz. The downlink frequencies range from 3700 to 4200 MHz, providing 500 MHz of bandwidth in each direction. This freq region overlaps with terrestrial microwave communication systems, which in turn causes interference between C-Band and terrestrial microwave communication systems.  Ku-Band usage, with its corresponding higher uplink and downlink frequencies, eliminates this problem.

Is there a motor for a 3 foot Ku band dish?

We concentrate on bringing FREE satellite TV to you at a low cost. We do carry H-H mounts for the small Ku-band dishes, but you also need a positioner to drive the H-H mount to turn the dish, and they are usually harder to install and track for beginners. See an example of a user’s motorized dish here.

I heard there are FTA channels on C-band as well. Will a FTA receiver pick up C-band?

Yes, it will receive C-band and Ku-band. C-band requires a larger dish, a C-band feed, and LNB. Most users have a Direct TV dish or Dish Network dish that is big enough for C-Band and Ku-band. Keep in mind however that only FTA (FREE) channels can be viewed. Carriers are switching to the 4DTV format for transfer to transponders, which will require payment of subscription to view the prime channels. Contact us for service pricing.

CAN I STILL RECEIVE SPEED TV (SPEED CHANNEL) ON C-BAND?

SPEED moved to a digital transponder  in Jan 1, 2005.  But in a deal with NPS (National Programming Service) Speed Channel agreed to carry analog network signals to C-Band, so viewers can watch the network on C-Band.  SPEED is available on the NPS Absolute Digital Pak marketed by Meridian Satellite Services.

Do the ViewSat and SonicView FTA receivers pick up C-Band broadcasts?

These receivers will pick up C-Band and KU-Band broadcasts, however a larger satellite dish with dual C-Band/Ku LNBF may be required depending on the signal you wish to receive..

Dish Angles How To

November 29th, 2008

Azimuth

Azimuth is the turning of your satellite dish East and West or Left & Right.  This is the same as your compass reading.  Make sure when you look on your compass for the proper degree, that your compass is away from your satellite dish.  Remember, metal can throw off the reading on your compass so be very care full. 

 

Elevation

Elevation is how high up the signal is coming from.  You can usually measure your elevation based on the degree markings on the back bracket of your satellite dish antenna.  Make sure you don’t tighten the bolts too much to leave room for play in case you need to fine tune your antenna with your signal meter.  Once you fine tune to the highest possible signal, you can tighten the elevation bolts.  

 

 

Polarization / Skew

Skew or Polarity is how much you turn your LNBF.  Standing in front of the satellite dish, if you have a positive Skew angle you want to turn your LNBF counter-clockwise.  If you have a negative skew angle, you  want to turn your LNBF clockwise.  In the East coast USA you have a positive skew, in West coast USA you have a negative skew.

 

DiSEqC HH Dish Motor FAQs

November 29th, 2008

 Do I need to install a separate power line to connect to the automatic HH dish motor mount?

No.  The motor gets powered by the receiver.  The receiver provides power to turn the LNB on and to switch polarity.  The motor consumes the same power through the coaxial cable that runs from the receiver to the LNBF.  Simply run the coaxial cable to your satellite dish motor, then from the HH dish motor run a 3 or 4 foot coaxial cable to the LNBF. 

 

How do I control the motor to move it East / West?

The motor is controlled by the receiver’s remote control.  All receivers compliant with the DiSEqC 1.2, 1.3, or USALS protocol have the capability to run an HH satellite motor.  Once you install and setup the motor to follow the satellite arch properly and store the different satellite positions and locations into the receiver, the receiver will automatically go to the location where the channel is being broadcasted from when you change TV channels on the receiver. 

 

Are all HH motors & receivers USALS, DiSEqC 1.2, & DiSEqC 1.3 compatible?

No.  All satellite motors and HH mounts are DiSEqC1.2 & DiSEqC1.3 compatible, but not all dish motors are USALS compatible.  Motors that are NOT USALS compatible are sometimes more reliable. 

 

Not all satellite C/Ku band receivers are DiSEqC 1.2 and DiSEqC 1.3 compatible.  Some are DiSEqC1.0.  Make sure the receiver you purchase is at least DiSEqC 1.2 compatible. 

 

Can I pick up C band and Ku band?

No.  You need a C band dish (2.4 meters / 6 foot) or larger to be able to pick up C band.  This system is only for Ku band reception. 

 

Does the motor also adjust for variation in elevation on the dish for each and every satellite

Yes.  When you install the motor based on your latitude, the motor will adjust the elevation as well. 

 Should I skew (rotate) my LNBF to align for polarity?

No.  Just leave the LNB at 0 degrees skew and the motor will tilt the satellite dish to make up for the adjustment of skew. 

 

What is the benefit from motorizing my dish?

Adding a motor to your system allows you to receive satellite channels from multiple satellites and not just one.  

 

Do I need to manually turn the dish every time I change channels?

No.  This is an automatic satellite dish motor.  Once it’s installed properly and your receiver is programmed with the locations of the satellites, every time you change channels, the receiver sends DiSEqC commands to the satellite motor to tell it to move and stop at a certain location where the satellite signal is broadcasting from.

How do I wire up the Dish Motor?

Simply run the coaxial cable to your satellite dish motor, then from the HH dish motor run a 3 or 4 foot coaxial cable to the LNBF. 

 

 

 

Dish Pointing Tips

November 22nd, 2008

 

General Site Survey
To get a signal, the satellite dish must be pointed directly at the satellite, with NO obstructions between the two. This means NO trees and NO buildings. Take into consideration future tree growth, house remodeling or additions and new construction in your area.
The satellite signal WILL NOT PASS through leaves or branches.
Use our Satellite Look Angle calculator to determine the proper dish angles.
Finding a Clear Line of Sight
  Get yourself a good compass, the best you can afford. Check the “Azimuth” and “Elevation” for your location here!
  Locate at least one site on your property that has a clear view to the satellite.
  Do you have at least one clear view to the satellite? Remember, no trees, leaves, or buildings can be between the dish and the satellite.
If the answer is NO, your site may not be suitable for installing the satellite system.
If the answer is MAYBE, you may want to contact a local digital satellite dealer for information about having a professional installer conduct a thorough site survey.
If the answer is YES, your site should be suitable for installing the system. Go ahead to the next section of these instructions.
Where Is Intelsat America 5 Satellite?
The satellite is always located south of Texas. That means if you live in Florida, you must have a clear line of sight to the southwest; if you live in California, you must have a clear line to the southeast.
Depending on where you live, the satellite will be at an elevation angle between 30 and 60 degrees. Southern states point more toward 60 degrees; northern states point more toward 30 degrees. Use our Satellite Look Angle calculator to determine your dish elevation and azimuth.

Dish Palcements

Dish Palcements

 

 

LNBF Polarization Tilt (skew):
Your LNB is marked with a label indicating the polarization tilt. Your local LNB polarity offset information varies by location. If you are in Houston, TX your LNB polarization is to be set at 0 degrees. But if you are on the California coast your LNB polarization could be as much as minus 30 degrees (clockwise rotation). And if you are in Maine your LNB polarization could be as much as plus 30 degree (counter-clockwise rotation. Peaking the dish and adjusting the polarity of the LNB will greatly improve your Signal Quality reading.
When adjusting your LNBF, be sure you don’t leave that LNBF holding bracket loose. The LNBF won’t pick up the satellite if the bracket is loose, and it’s slightly off. Finally, when thinking about degrees, remember that 30 degrees is about 5 minutes on a clock. Don’t turn the LNB too much!
 
  • Make certain that the pole or tri-mast assembly is vertically plumb. Check it with an Angle Finder or a level. If the pole or tri-mast is not plumb, your azimuth and elevation will not be accurate and will cause difficulty when pointing the dish. Also, if you are using a pole mount, make certain you pour a sufficient footing that will provide proper ballast. A pole that does not have sufficient ballast will lean over time, causing you to lose the signal. Your mount must be very strong and can not wobble. You must use at least 4 lag screws (correct size for your installation) in the base mount one on each corner.
 
  • When pointing the satellite dish, allow 5-10 seconds between any movements of the dish. This allows the receiver to complete a signal scan, and lock indicating that you have located the signal.
 
  • A reasonable signal strength is between 50 and 80. If it is lower than that range, you are either pointing into an object (e.g. trees, shrubs, or structures) or pointing above or below the satellite. Your antenna installation position must have a clear view angle of the satellite you are trying to receive.
 
  • There are other satellites within 2 degrees to the left or right that may use the same frequency. This will provide a strong signal strength reading but no signal quality or signal lock. If you have a high strength reading but are not able to lock on, try adjusting the dish slightly to the right or left.
 
  • When you are attempting to set up a satellite dish in a heavily wooded area or one with lots of man made obstructions, it helps to understand how the dish really works. One common misconception is that the dish points ‘directly’ at the satellite. This isn’t the case for most dish designs. The apparent elevation of the dish is 15 or more degrees lower than it’s actual receiving window. Have a look at this diagram…. it’s easier to see it than it is to explain it…..
 
If you complete the above steps properly, your chance of a successful installation is 99.9%.
 
and you are trying to aim your dish that the receiver waits about 3-5 seconds after it locks on to the correct signal before it registers on the receiver’s signal meter on the antenna aiming screen on your TV. Move your dish in very small increments (2 deg East or West each instance until you find the signal then 1 deg to peak signal). If you move the dish too fast and do not pause between moves you might go thru the signal before the receiver can tell you that you are on the signal.
 
If you use a signal meter you can hook it into the system right at the dish and it responds to the signal immediately making it much easier to aim your dish. You do not need any one else to help you if you use a meter at the dish.
 
Compare Signal Strength and Quality
Zero Strength and Zero Quality:
If this is the symptom you are experiencing, then the receiver is currently not receiving the signal from the dish. Check all connections between your receiver and the dish. Make sure that they are all plugged in to the proper place and are tight.One of the most common connection problems is to have the cable coming from the dish plugged in to the connection marked “In from Antenna,” which is incorrect. The cable coming from the dish needs to be plugged in to the connection marked “In from Dish, Digital In, or LNB IN”One of the most common connection problems is to have the cable coming from the dish plugged in to the connection marked “In from Antenna,” which is incorrect. The cable coming from the dish needs to be plugged in to the connection marked “In from Dish, Digital In, or LNB IN”Also, the cables might have developed a short or might have gotten moisture in them, especially out at the dish. If this is a possibility, you may want to have an installer check the cables or take them to an installer yourself.
 
0-30 Strength and Zero Quality:
If you are experiencing these levels of strength and quality, you are getting only noise signals. Make sure that there are no obstacles between the dish and satellite.
 
40-60 Strength and Zero Quality:
With this level of strength and a lack of quality, it is very likely that the dish has moved since its initial installation or you are still off alignment. We recommend going through the Dish Installation pointing steps and finding the satellite signal again. This will likely take just a few minor adjustments of the dish since it should not have moved very much. Key causes for this problem include bolts not being tightened properly, heavy winds, or the dish being struck or bumped by something. Once the signal has been found again, make certain all bolts are tightened well.We also recommend that once you have everything tightened down and have your signal back, make a mark from the cap mount to the pole with paint or some other permanent substance. This will give you a reference point, should any future problems occur. You can also make a mark on the side of the cap mount where your elevation markings are imprinted.
 
40-60 Strength and 30-70 Quality:
This level of strength and quality indicates that the dish needs to be fine-tuned to the satellite. You may have noticed that prior to getting the “Bad or No Signal” message your picture was occasionally blotchy and your audio may have been out of sync with the picture. These are all symptoms of the need to fine-tune the dish. Optimum signal quality is between 70 and 100.
 
TIP: You can fine-tune your dish by going back to the signal strength screen. While the signal bar is running, have someone out at the dish. He will need to loosen the collar that holds the LNB. This is done by slightly loosening the two screws that hold the collar together. Once these screws are loose, slowly twist the LNB a fraction of an inch. After each movement allow 5 seconds for the receiver to register the change and update your quality reading. If the quality readings immediately begin to get lower while the adjustments are being made, then the LNB needs to be turned in the other direction. Once the LNB fine tuning is complete, tighten the two screws on the LNB collar. You may then complete the scan by pressing START.